LOOK's Digital Lifestyle Editor Anna Duff revisits a childhood holiday destination to see the country through adult eyes...

I have fond memories of visiting Portugal at the age of nine. I can picture myself splashing about in warm seas, skipping down cobbled streets and eating ice cream in tucked-away cafés.
Idyllic, sure. But am I just remembering the country through the rose-tinted fuzziness of childhood? Almost 20 years later, it’s time to find out.
My family and I holidayed in the Algarve, staying in a villa in the freguesia of Boliqueime (yes, I did ring my mum to confirm that). My first destination is in the same area, although a little further along the coast in the charming fishing village of Carvoeiro.
I’m booked into Tivoli Carvoeiro, which overlooks the ocean on the Vale Covo cliffside. The views of dramatic crags and azure waters are stunning, and the hotel has recently undergone an impressive five-month remodelling project. It now boasts fully refurbished rooms and suites, a spa, three new restaurants and three bars.

Tivoli Carvoeiro has just undergone a stunning refurbishment
While the hotel is gorgeous, I need a good balance of relaxing and exploring to really feel like I’m making the most of being away. Happily, there are plenty of adventurous excursions on offer here. Guests can take on the 7 Hanging Valleys Trail, which involves an 11.4k walk along the natural winding lines of the coastline. Along the way, you’ll see secluded beaches, sea stacks, flora and fauna and wildlife. You can also join a boat tour, exploring mystical caves and their hidden secrets.
After that, you may want to head further inland for a bit of time out. What better way to celebrate being away from the office than visiting local winery Quinta da Cabrita and indulging in a well-deserved wine tasting session? I’ll have a red, please.
Feeling hungry? The One Restaurant in Tivoli is a unique but mouth-watering choice, describing itself as ‘following the shape of a pyramid, with Portugal in the lead, French technique and Asian minimalism as supports’. Up on the chic roof terrace, you can sample delicious cocktails and finger food at the Sky Bar.

The views from the Sky Bar are incredible
Now that I’m not constrained by parental itineraries, I’m keen to travel around a little. It’s on to Lisbon, the capital of Portugal and somewhere I’ve never been before. After hearing friends talk of quirky bars and vintage shopping buys, I’m excited to see a more metropolitan side to the country.
I’m checking into another Tivoli hotel, the elegant Tivoli Avenida Liberdade. Established in 1933, it’s located in the heart of Lisbon, on the lively Avenida da Liberdade. It’s recently re-opened with a brand new Tivoli Spa, which provides guests with a haven of calm amid the hustle and bustle of city life.

The rooms at Tivoli Avenida Liberdade are beautifully furnished
You may not expect to see a tuk tuk outside of Asia (or, y’know, Oxford Street), but one of the best ways to learn about Lisbon is by hopping on one and riding through the city. If you prefer to keep your feet on terra firma, there are walking tours that’ll teach you about the history of famous neighbourhoods such as Chiado and Bairro Alto.
I can confirm that there are wonderful vintage shops to wile away the hours in, and if you’re interested in art, you should definitely consider the Lisbon Street Art Tour. You’ll see both Portuguese and international works of art on façades and walls of the city’s historic areas, with the Pombaline-style buildings striking a contrast with the urban graffiti in other parts of town.
Of course, you don’t want to go straight to bed when the sun sets. While there are hundreds of bars and restaurants to try, you don’t need to leave your hotel to enjoy gourmet food and drink.
Within Tivoli Avenida Liberdale you’ll find Terraço Rui Paula, which combines traditional Portuguese gastronomy with new elements and flavours. Afterwards, pop next door to a sister Sky Bar, where you’ll be treated to panoramic views over Lisbon and the Tagus river.
After this trip, I’m adding so many other parts of Portugal to my bucket list. But in my opinion, these are two of the best places to start if you want to get a rounded experience of the area.
Do they live up to my pre-teen expectations? Actually, I think they do.
Nightly rates at Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Lisboa start from 200€/£177 for a double room on a B&B basis. For more information, click here.
Nightly rates at Tivoli Carvoeiro start from 100€/£89 for a double room on a B&B basis. For more information, click here.
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